RWANDA
As nation reconciles with itself, a successful transition helps Rwanda recover from past wounds




Ms. Solange Katarebe

Interview with Ms. Solange Katarebe


Rwanda Office of Tourism and National Parks 


Ms. Solange Katarebe
Director

Contact details:
Tel: +250-76514/5 or 73396
Fax: +250-76512
E-mail : ortpn@rwanda1.com
Web site : www.ortpn.gov.rw
www.visitrwanda.gov.rw





 
 
MISSION 


ORTPN is a public institution, which was created by Presidential decree in June 1973.
The office is a parastatal with administrative and financial autonomy, guided by 6 board members and a chairman. The Board Secretary also serves as the Director General of ORTPN and all board members are appointed by Parliament. Its key mandates are :
· National Parks Management and Conservation
· The promotion of Tourism and Cultural Heritage
· The development and management of Sites and Monuments.

The famous mountain silverback gorilla
Park fees, Government subsidies and grants from partners and donors finance the running of the Office. ORTPN pursues its tasks in close collaboration with its NGO partners and the private sector, in matters of conservation and in promoting tourism.
Given the growing importance of tourism at both National and International levels, the government is currently in the process of restructuring ORTPN in order to encourage a more focused and dynamic approach to Tourism Promotion and Conservation Management.

Akagera National Park
The magic of the African bush View of Akagera National Park

Akagera comes as an exciting surprise after the steep cultivated hills and breezy climate that characterize the test of the country. Set at a relatively low altitude along the Tanzanian border, this beautiful game reserve protects an archetypal African savannah landscape of tangled acacia and brachystegia bush, interspersed with patches of open grassland and a dozen swamp-fringed lakes that follow the meandering course of the Akagera River.

Lakes in Akagera Park

Akagera's stirring and varied scenery is complemented by a superb range of big game. Herds of elephant and buffalo are most likely to be encountered when they emerge from the dense woodland to drink at the lakes, while lucky visitors might stumble across a lion, a leopard or a spotted hyena. Giraffe and zebra are frequently seen in open woodland, and more than a dozen types of antelope inhabit the park, most commonly the handsome chestnut-coated impala, but also the diminutive oribi and secretive bushbuck, as well as the ungainly tsessebe and the world's largest antelope, the magnificent Cape eland.

Impalas

Buffalo

To camp alongside Akagera's picturesque lakes is a truly mystical introduction to the wonders of the African bush. Pods of 50 hippopotami grunt and splutter throughout the day, while outsized crocodiles soak in the sun with their vast jaws menacingly agape. Magically, the air is torn apart by the unforgettable high duetting of a pair of fish eagles, asserting their status as the uncontested king and queen of Africa's waterways. Lining the lakes are some of the continent's densest concentrations of water birds - storks, egrets, ibises, plovers, sandpipers, kingfishers and herons. The connecting marshes are the haunt of localised papyrus specialists such as the red, yellow and black papyrus gonolek, the secretive blue-headed coucal, and the singularly bizarre shoebill stork - the latter perhaps the most sought-after of all African birds.

Zebras in Akagera National Park
PARC NATIONAL DES VOLCANS 


Gorillas in the Mist
"In the heart of central Africa, so high up that you shiver more than you sweat, are great, old volcanoes towering up almost 15000 feet, and nearly covered with rich, green rainforest - the Virungas"
- Dr. Dian Fossey describing the intensely beautiful mountain range on which she spent the last two decades of her life studying Rwanda's endangered mountain gorillas.
Gorillas in the National Volcanoes Park of the Virungas

Protected within the Parc des Volcans, the lushly forested slopes of the Virungas form an appropriately dramatic natural setting for what is arguably the most poignant and memorable wildlife experience to be had in the wilds of Africa: gorilla tracking. The exhilarating climb to the gorillas' habitat of shady bamboo forest offers fantastic views in all directions, before trekkers are immersed in the mysterious intimacy of the rainforest, alive with the calls of colourful birds and the chattering of the rare golden monkey.
Nothing can prepare one for the impact of encountering a fully-grown silverback gorilla: up to three times as bulky as the average man, yet remarkably peaceable and tolerant of human visitors. Nor are these words to describe the thrill of recognition attached to staring deep into the liquid brown eyes of these gentle giants, which share some 97% of their genes with humans.

That mountain gorillas survive today is largely thanks to Dian Fossey, who is buried at her research center in the Virungas alongside the animals to which she dedicated her life. Fossey became a household name following the release of the biographical film Gorillas in the Mist, set and shot on location in the Parc National des Volcans. Critical and public acclaim ensured that Gorillas in the Mist also served to raise international awareness of the plight of the mountain gorilla. A mere 300 of these gentle giants survive in the wild, half of them resident in Rwanda, where four habituated groups - ranging in size from 7 to 33 individuals - can be visited by up to 32 tourists daily.

The main base for gorilla tracking, Ruhengeri, is a small but bustling market town situated 15km from the base of the Virungas. Boasting a wonderful sub-montane setting, and an excellent range of cheap to midrange hotels, Ruhengeri is an agreeable place to spend the night before one goes gorilla tracking, as well as being the obvious base from which to explore the little-known but compellingly beautiful Lakes Burera and Ruhondo. Alternatively, visitors seeking a higher level of comfort could base themselves in Gisenyi or Kigali, and - with an early start - head to Ruhengeri as a day trip from there.
NYUNGWE NATIONAL PARK 


Primate and Bird Nirvana

Nyungwe National Park, extending for almost 1000km2 across the majestic hills of southeast Rwanda, is the largest 'island' of montane forest remaining in East or Central Africa: a rich and ancient centre unparalleled biodiversity and natural wonders. Transected by the surfaced road between Butare and Lake Kivu, Nyungwe and its array of forest inhabitants are also uniquely accessible to casual visitors.


Approach Nyungwe along the main road, and you will initially be struck by the forest's glorious sense of expansiveness; a lush verdant swathe across the mighty hills that roll like gigantic green waves towards the distant horizon. Paradoxically, when you follow the walking trails within Nyungwe, it is the intimacy of the rainforest that most impress: the closed canopy overhead, the towering trees and delicate ferns that line the steep gorges, the mysterious calling and rustling of birds and monkeys hidden deep in the greenery.
Recently accorded national park status, Nyungwe is rightly celebrated for the rich variety of its flora and fauna. At least 200 different types of tree are found in the forest, along with hundreds of different flowering plants, including wild begonia, more than 100 species of orchid, and sensational giant lobelias. Of the large mammals, primates are the most visible, with 13-recorded species representing 25% of the African primate checklist. Of particular interest is the Angola colobus - delightfully acrobatic arboreal monkeys that move in troops of several hundred - and an estimated 500 chimpanzee, often seen from the forest trails during the rainy season. Other primates likely to be encountered over the course of a visit are L'Hoest's monkey, vervet monkey, olive baboon, grey-cheeked mangabey, and red-tailed monkey.

Home to more than 275 bird species, Nyungwe is the most important birding site in Rwanda. Most alluring to ornithologists are 24 Albertine Rift endemics - birds whose range is restricted to a handful of montane forests between southern Uganda and northern Burundi - a list that includes the spectacular Ruwenzori turaco, secretive red-chested alethe, and several iridescent sunbirds. Equally remarkable are the perpetually honking giant hornbills that crash through the forest canopy, and the stunning great blue turaco - an outlandishly blue, red and green bird most often seen gliding from one tree to the next in procession.

Far from being the sweaty tropical jungle one might expect, Nyungwe lies at elevation of between 1600m and 2950m, and enjoys an agreeable cool climate. An extensive network of well-maintained forest trails lead to various waterfalls and viewing points. A comfortably rustic rest house and perfectly situated campsite lie alongside the main road, and the reserve can be readily visited as a day trip from smarter hotels in the towns of Butare and Cyangugu. Nyungwe does, however, deserve more time: anybody who wants to track chimps and see several varieties of smaller primate will need two days there - and dedicated birdwatchers might never want to leave this magical forest!
THE LAKES 





Lake Kivu is extraordinarily beautiful: a vast inland sea enclosed by the steep, green terraced hills that are so characteristic of rural Rwanda. Along its shores lie three resort towns, Gisenyi, Kibuye and Cyangugu, connected by a wild roller-coaster road that tumbles through lush plantain fields and relic patches of misty rainforest to offer sweeping views over the shimmering lake.

Gisenyi, a short drive from Ruhgengeri and the Parc des Volcans, is set on a sandy beach lined with swaying palms and colonial-era hotels that positively exude an atmosphere of tropical languor. At Kibuye, tourist activities are centered around a modern lakeshore guesthouse, which overlooks pine-covered hills seemingly transplanted from the Alps. Different again is Cyangugu, close to Nyungwe Forest, where most subdued tourist development is compensated for by perhaps by the most spectacular setting of them all.

View on the Lake Kivu from Kibuye

Lake Kivu is the largest of numerous lakeswhich fill the valleys of Rwanda. Lakes Burera and Ruhondo, close to the gorilla-tracking centre of Ruhengeri, are often neglected gems: deep blue waters ringed by steep hills and tall waterfalls, with the outlines of the nearby Virunga Volcanoes providing a spectacular backdrop, particular as seen from the comfortable Foyer de Charité guesthouse on lake Ruhondo. Further south, Lake Muhazi makes for a good day trip from Kigali, with overnight camping available.

Relaxing at the "Guest House" by the Lake Kivu in Kibuye

Gisenyi and Kibuye are the places to head for creature comforts and water sports. Away from the main resorts, however, the lake circuits offer rewarding glimpses into a more ancient Africa, as fisherman ply the water in dugout canoes unchanged in design for many centuries, colourfully dressed ladies smoke traditional wooden pipes, and troubadours strum sweetly on stringed iningire (traditional guitars). The bird life around the lakes is fantastic: flotillas of pelicans, majestic crowned cranes, jewel-like malachite kingfishers, and much else besides.
KIGALI AND BUTARE 


Cities of Commerce and Culture
Kigali, the capital of Rwanda, is both a modern business center and a lush garden city, sprawling attractively over verdant slopes in the very heart of the land of a Thousand Hills. The main port of entry to Rwanda, Kigali is serviced by a modern airport, and connected to neighbouring Uganda and Burundi by zippy surfaced roads. It boasts a range of hotels to suit all tastes and budgets, and a selection of restaurants serving cuisine from around the globe.

Round-about of the Modern Woman

Kigali, despite concessions to modernity, retains a satisfyingly organic shape and unpretentious low-rise charm. The compact city center, which surrounds a busy, colourful market, is studded with souvenir stalls displaying fine local craftsmanship, while leafy avenues wind through hilly suburbia, and the atmospheric Muslim quarter. Safe, and overwhelmingly friendly, Kigali enjoys a temperate high-altitude climate which belies its tropical location and appearance, and is centrally located within three hours of most of Rwanda's tourist sites.

Church of Butare

Rwanda's second city, Butare, situated 135km south of the capital, is the intellectual and cultural heart of the nation, set a short distance from the traditional seat of the feudal monarch, and the site of numerous academic institutions including the country's largest university. The main road through this compact and sedate small city is lined with inexpensive but comfortable hotels and breezy terrace restaurants. On the outskirts of Butare, Rwanda's National Museum houses the finest ethnographic collection in East Africa. The absorbing displays of traditional artifacts, illuminated by turn-of-the-century monochrome photographs, provide insights into not only Rwanda's pre-colonial lifestyles, but also its subsequent development into a modern African state. Within easy day-tripping distance of Butare, the Royal Palace of Nyanza is an enormous traditionally constructed dome, no longer in active use, painstakingly maintained as a museum.

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