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Angkor Wat A World Heritage Site

Angkor is the life and soul of the Khmer people who make up 90% of the Cambodian population. It is central to Khmer art and civilization, representing the spiritual heart and identity of the people and the power of the Khmer kingdom that ruled over most of present day Southeast Asia between 800 AD and 1430 AD.

The Angkor complex covers more than 400 square kilometers. At the centre stands Angkor Wat, the largest and most famous of all the temples. The temples were built between the 7th and 13th centuries by Khmer kings at a time when Khmer civilization was at the height of its extraordinary creativity. The magnificent architecture stands as evidence of the Khmer's strong belief in religion - Hinduism and Buddhism. King Jayavarman VII was one of the powerful Khmer kings of this period.

The most visited temples in Angkor are Angkor Wat, Bayon, Bapoun, Takeo, Ta Prohm, Banteay Kdei, Banteay Srei, and the Rolous Group.

ANGKOR WAT

Angkor Wat is the largest temple in the world and covers an area of 200 hectares. It was built by King Suryavarman II in the middle of the 12th century, and took 30 years to complete. Upon entering Angkor Wat you will see an imposing square column. On all four sides of this column are bas-relief sculptures, each one telling a different story. The first wall depicts how the Angkor Empire was built, and how the king and his generals planned and fought battles. The second depicts Hindu reincarnation. The third wall tells how Vishnu protected the kingdom and her people and the last wall shows how the people revered, praised and glorified their god-king.

Beyond Angkor Wat lies the vast city of Angkor Thom, guarded by imposing walls six meters high and eight meters thick. At its center lies the enigmatic Bayon, complete with 216 god-like faces from whose gaze visitors cannot escape. Built by Jayavarman VII (1181-1219), Angkor Thom was the last capital of the Khmer Empire and is surrounded by many more monumental temples constructed by this most famous of the devarajas, or god-kings.

Another major site is Ta Prohm swallowed by the jungle, deliberately left much as it was found by French explorer Henre Mouhot, who "rediscovered" the temples in the 1860s-z striking example of nature's triumph over man, the tentacle-like roots of vast trees slowly strangling and tearing apart the once splendid human creation. The sister structure of Preah Khan, or "Sacred Sword", also constructed by Jayavarman LII, has cruciform corridors that stretch on as far as the eye can see.

Beyond the many temples that lie scattered throughout this ancient capital, many other ancient sites are scattered about the countryside, some of them hidden beneath dense jungle in the north of the country. Most of these remote attractions require that visitors have a genuine thirst for adventure just to get there. The following destinations offer seven good reasons to spend a week or more than you planned tracking down the undiscovered jewels of the great Angkorian kings.

PHMOM KULEN

Perhaps the most sacred place in Cambodia, Phmom Kulen is the holy mountain where, when Jayavarman II proclaimed independence from Java in 802, the Angkorian empire was born. This mountain plateau served as the capital of the first Khmer Empire for more than half a century before it relocated south to Hariharalaya, known today as Roluos. Numerous important sites lie scattered across the mountaintop.

Wat Prcah Ang Thom makes a focus for Khmer pilgrims during religious festivals, and the large reclining Buddha carved into a huge sandstone boulder offers spectacular views across lush jungle. Nearby, impressive riverbed rock carvings include innumerable lingams and representations of Shiva and Vishnu. A classic waterfall further downstream makes a good spot to cool off after explorations, and close by lies a small, jungle-clad temple called Prasat Kraul Romeas.

Get there from Siem Reap. There is no charge to visit, but access to the trail isn't permitted after 3.30pm. It makes a half-day trip from Siem Reap or may be combined with Beng Mealea in a daytrip. Food and water are available at the base of the trail.

BANTEAY CHHMAR

Banteay Chhmar is an immense temple complex constructed by Jayavarman VII, Cambodia's most dedicated builder. "Narrow Fortress" in Khmer, this temple would have been the center of a major city in the 13th century. Left to the jungle for years, it has only recently been cleared, revealing superb carvings on its outer walls, as well as the enigmatic faces of Avalokiteshvara, also seen to such superb effect at the Bayon in Angkor Thom.

Sadly, Banteay Chhmar was subjected to much looting in the late 1990s, but many exquisite carvings remain, including Lok Sam Pi, or the "Man with 32 Hands", and local children can point out other hidden gems amid the rubble.

Many smaller temples are found in the vicinity of Banteay Chhmar, but most are in terrible conditions. Banteay Torp (Fortress of the Army) is certainly worth the visit, however. It's a small temple of five crumbling towers, one of which has been reconstructed and resembles a gnarled finger pointing heavenwards.

You'll find Banteay Chhmar about 150km northwest of Siem Reap via Sisophon on a reasonable road. It takes about four hours and can be visited on a long daytrip or a two-day trip with a night's stopover in Sisophon. Banteay Torp lies about 14km southeast of Banteay Chhmar on a poor dirt road. Food and drinks are Sisophon, but not at Banteay Top.

PREAH KHAM

Not to be confused with the Preah Khan of Angkor notoriety, lest tourists want two days in the forest of Preah Vihear Province, this extremely remote temple complex is often referred to as Preah Khan Kampong Svay by scholars, or Prasat Bakan by locals. The largest Single enclosure constructed during the age of Angkor. Its total area is even larger than Angkor Thom, and it's believed to be the second city of the Khmer Empire, where mighty King Jayavarman VII was educated.

Several principal structures are found at Prasat Khan, including four faced Prasat Preah Stung, a trademark of Jayavarman VII, constructed in the style of the Bayon, and delicate Prasat Damrei, or Elephant Temple, a small pyramid with two elegant carved elephants ceremoniously adorned by locals.

The main structure is of gigantic proportions, but has fallen victim to looting in past years due to its remote ness. Some carvings outer walls are in solid shape. Preah Khan is connected to Beng Mealea and Angkor by an ancient Angkorian road with elaborate stone. Many other ancient sites are scattered about the countryside, some of them hidden beneath dense jungle. Bridges spanning the many rivers, including 77 metre Spean Ta Ong with its 15 arches and two guardian nagas, a sight to behold in the midst of the jungle.

Preah Khan is about 130km east of Siem Reap on some miserable roads. Access is by 4WD or motorbike during the dry season only, and can be at temple from Siem Reap, Kampong Thom or Tbeng Meanchey. It really requires a two-day trip with an over night in the nearby village of Ta Seng, but it's necessary to bring a mosquito net and hammoch.

KOH KER

Koh Ker is a remote temple complex established by Jayavarman IV (AD 928-942) as a rival capital to Angkor in the 10th century. It may have been the capital for just 15 year, but Jayavarman IV was determined to legitimise his rule through an extensive building programme, and left behind 30 major temples and some gargantuan sculpture seen today in the National Museum in Phnom Penh.

The most impressive temple at Koh Ker is Prasat Thom, a giant pyramid spanning seven levels, offering major views of the surrounding country. Another stately structure here is Prasat Krahom, or the Red temple, named after the pinkish Banteay Srei-style stone from which it is built.

Beyond the main temples hide many other smaller sites, some of which are found along the road to Beng Mealea. Prasat Damrei used to be guarded by large elephant statues, while Prasat Chen was where a statue of wrestling apes, now housed in the National Museum, was found.

Currently, all local roads are appalling, and the area can only be reached in the dry season by 4WD or motorbike. Three are several routes from Siem Reap (130km) or Tbeng Meanchey, all via the village of Srayang. It really requires two days to visit properly, and accommodation can be arranged with local villagers, as well as basic food supplies. Pack a mosquito net, hammock and lots of water.