 THE HIGHLAND |
Mist drapes over dewladen hills in the highlands of Guatemala.
The earth's massive movement has left its tell-tale signs over the landscape. Volcanoes and wind-swept peaks provide stunning backdrops for the montane and cloud forests that blanket them.
Guatemala's highlands are fertile expanses forested with pine, cypress and cedar trees. Among the towering trees are small villages inhabited by indigenous residents whose brightly colored clothing contrast with the emerald background of the forest. Roads that wind through the area take you through incredibly beautiful landscapes and bring to mind scenery from childhood fairytales.
| The Northern Highlands |
Guatemala's northern highlands are a must on any visitor's list. There are trails to follow and caves to explore in this mountainous region. The area boasts the craggy summits of the Sierra Madre and the Cuchumatanes mountain range.
As you climb higher on the road to Alta Verapaz, you'll pass a small reserve set up for the quetzal. The Biotopo del Quetzal offers trails through prime cloud forest that serves as habitat for the national bird. If you want to spot the elusive quetzal, visitors will have to hit the trails in the early morning hours. Birds are most active early in the day when they fly out into the forest to feed. The "early bird" axiom rings true here if you want to see this magnificent winged jewel.
The town of Cobán is a great place to town to visit when traveling through the highlands. Founded by Friar Bartolomé de las Casas, the town today is a friendly, bustling town full of merchants and commerce. Market day shouldn't be missed and is held every Sunday. Whether you need supplies or just want to browse, check out the town on this busy day.
Further up the road, you'll find San Pedro Carchá. The artisans of this small town specialize in elaborating beautiful silver jewelry. Earrings, bracelets and pendants are sold here to both local and international visitors. There are contemporary designs available but the typical Guatemalan designs, delicately adorned with the quetzal and other Maya symbols, are also available.
There is a truly awesome sight to visit that is tucked off the main road just past the town of Lanquín. It is called Semuc Champey and it is one of Guatemala's most beautiful spots. A short five-minute walk from the park entrance will take you into this natural paradise. The view is quite spectacular. The rushing Cahabon river, one of Guatemala's longest, is churned to white water and plunges into a deep rock chute that plummets deep into the earth. Pay close attention to where you step since the rocks can be slippery. Further down the slope, a series of pools have formed. The water in these pools is deliciously cold and possesses a light blue color. The pools are of varying depths as you move down the slope and the last one is rather large but not too deep. With adequate supplies, visitors can make a day of Semuc Champey quite easily. Once you find yourself in this beautiful setting, you'll be hard pressed to pick up and leave.
 Lanquín Cave |
But the exploration isn't quite over. Those interested in what is below the ground have their work cut out for them in Lanquín Cave. Not for the claustrophobic, Lanquín Cave is not only located in a spectacular spot complete with a rushing river but it has ties to the Maya as well. The entrance to the cave is located underneath a large rocky overhang. The steps leading up to it give you a great view down to a large hole that lies at the bottom of one of its stone walls. The Lanquín river rushes out of this subterranean chute and begins its meandering flow out of the earth.
The cave of Lanquín was originally discovered by the Maya. There is a sacrificial altar found some 500 meters into the cave. It continues to be used today by the local Maya elders. They burn incense and candles while offering prayers to Mother Earth for copious rains and bountiful harvests. The trek inside the cave is not for the weak hearted. Although there are safety railings inside, you will require good balance to get deeper into the cave. The craggy terrain gives you precipitous views into the darker and deeper chambers below. Guides are available and will charge depending on the size of the group. The variety of activities in Cobán give visitors plenty of ways to truly experience this beautiful region.
| Los Cuchumatanes and Todos Santos |
Once you're on the road again, head for the Cuchumatanes mountain range. These lofty peaks tower some 3,000 meters above sea level. The Mam speaking residents did not have roads in and out of the area until well into this century. Here in the Cuchumatanes you'll find the town of Todos Santos. This small town attracts thousands of visitors every year for the November 1st town fair. This is one of the handful of places where men have retained their traditional dress, and the people of Todos Santos are, perhaps, the most-photographed people in Guatemala.
On November 1st, All Saints Day is celebrated and here in Todos Santos the festivities go on no holds barred! The men mount horses and race back and forth along a track outside of town, pausing to take a drink of rum between laps. Eventually the rider becomes so drunk he can no longer stay on his horse, and his place is taken by another member of the family.
Once the festivities are over you can head further up the road, and investigate small indigenous towns that few ever visit. The towns of Guatemala's true interior are many and each hold their own individual appeal.
| The Western Highlands |
The multitude of colors, dramatic landscape, and deeply entrenched Maya culture of this area creates a vivid and overwhelming sensation for visitors. Majestically towering evergreen and violet volcanoes and turquoise blue waters sparkle brilliantly with the colored threads of woven traje (dress), and echo throughout the many different villages surrounding the lake, which are as varied in attire, culture and tradition as the local terrain.
The Maya claimed this area sometime after 2000 B.C., yet over the course of thousands of years the complex traditions of the Maya and the natural, breathtaking beauty of the landscape have survived and still thrive today. The influence of the Conquistadores, lead by the infamous Alvarado and his troops, has been intricately woven into the overall cultural design since the 1500's. Slices of Catholicism and Protestant practices have been incorporated into the strong foundation of Maya beliefs. The result is a fascinatingly rich tale of folklore, legends, rituals, languages that beckon visitors to stay awhile and take a deeper look.
The original inhabitants of the lake area were the Kaqchikel to the northwest and the Tz'utujil to the southeast. Their past is that of warring nations fiercely committed to the domination of the other. Unfortunately, their tribal conflicts were used against them when the Spanish conquistador Pedro de Alvarado convinced the Kaqchikel to join his troops in conquering the Tz'utujil, and succeeded on the northern shore of what was later named Panajachel on the fated day of April 20, 1524. After Alvarado's alliance with the Kaqchikel had served its purpose, he turned and conquered their territory and eventually overtook all the villages within the lake's vicinity.
Regional customs and sources of economic existence in agriculture, fishing and weaving have not changed much since the 1500's. The lake highland area is one of the few existing models of life where visitors can experience the Maya as it was thousands of years ago Each individual populace wears unique, colorful, identifying woven dress, an age old art of intricate weaving and embroidery, one piece often requiring months to complete. Of the more than three hundred different huipiles (blouses) throughout Guatemala, the majority are found in the highlands as is evidenced by the incredible variety of designs found in the Lake Atitlán area.
Lake Atitlán experienced an intensely violent beginning 85,000 years ago when there occured a cataclismic eruption, vaporizing life and spreading ash from Panama to Florida. The eruption formed an enormous crater reaching for miles toward the Pacific coast. What followed 60,000 years later was the emergence of the volcanoes San Pedro, Tolimán, and Atitlán and thus this deep lake, with depths reaching over 1,200 feet, was formed.
A large variety of outdoor activities like hiking, bird watching, paragliding and water skiing await visitors. While others can take advantage of the Spanish language schools, holistic health centers, and delve into the arts, crafts and traditions of the Maya. Either way, one can't resist the magical enchantment of Lake Atitlán and its home in the western highlands.
| Panajachel |
Located on the north shore in the delta of the Panajachel river lies the bustling town of Panajachel (Place of the tree killing vine). An arresting concoction of "old meets new", with a cosmopolitan twist of services and international restaurants. Panajachel offers the best of many different cultures and is a good place to start exploring the lake. Not only is this bustling town a virtual mecca for shoppers with stalls of colorful típico lining the streets, many shops offer excellent information and books about the history behind the Maya arts in an attempt to keep local traditions alive and thriving. Market day is held everyday with Sunday offering the largest selection of produce and crafts. The most spectacular view of the area is certainly seen from high above the lake. Coming from far and wide to experience the bird's eye view of Lake Atitlán, visitors can learn to paraglide or, take a fabulous sail across the lake instead in the catamaran available for rides on the west shore.
The main method of transportation to and from the villages surrounding the lake is by boat. Docked on the main beach and to the west of town, they leave approximately every 30 minutes during daylight hours. The road leading to several of the villages makes for a pleasant, though quite rugged excursion, providing beautiful scenery and access to the villages seldom seen by tourists.
| Santa Cruz La Laguna |
The Kakchikel inhabitants of Santa Cruz La Laguna enjoy one of the most spectacular panoramas of the lake and volcanoes. The town was moved to higher elevation after experiencing flooding in the 1800's and a quaint, winding, cobblestone road leads up to adobe huts surrounding a colonial church. Their Titular Festival livens up the town from May 7-11 when the dances of the Conquista, Los Mexicanos, and El Toro are performed. Most of the restaurants and hotels in the area are closer to the dock where charmingly rustic accomodations offer breakfast and lunch in the garden, or candlelit dinners by the fireplace. | Due to fissures in the floor of the lake, the water level of Atitlán has risen and fallen for thousands of years leaving remnants of civilizations and petrified forests below its surface. Divers seeking their certification or the sight of submerged pre-columbian ruins are drawn from all over the world. Hammocks sprinkle the water's edge offering visitors the perfect spot for siestas and book reading.
A lovely day hike from Santa Cruz is found along the public path bordering the lake. This path traverses over mountain ridges and along the lakeshore to the remote villages of Jaibilito and Tzununa and provides some very dramatic photo taking opportunities.
| San Marcos La Laguna |
San Marcos La Laguna was settled by indigenous escaping a plague of vampire bats on the coast in Guazacapatán in the 1500's, San Marcos lies to the west of Santa Cruz. These residents are no strangers to relocation, in the 1700's the entire village had to relocate once again to higher grounds in order to rebuild after heavy rains. During the rainy season, San Marcos is still known for its heavy amounts of rainfall which makes for a lush and tropical environment year round. San Marcos is well known for their production of string from maguay. Men gather these tule plants lining the shore and use the fibers in weaving string bags, which can be found in any number of markets throughout Guatemala. Many restaurants and picturesque accomodations can be found and the community is popular for its holistic health centers and vegetarian dishes.
In the year 1850, an indigenous group originally from San Pedro settled a colony on the coast in Cutzán resulting in one of the first major trading routes and commercial exchange to and from the coast to the Lake Atitlán area. Cotton, brought from this interchange, has been a primary factor in creating the western highland's strong industry of textiles.
Famous for the "Bone Doctors", locals swear by the magic of the age old art of "laying on of hands" by the doctors in residence here and come from miles around to have their broken, or problematic bones and joints healed. The Titular Festival for San Pedro is June 27-30 and their local market is held on Thursdays and Sundays. Not far from San Pedro in between San Juan and San Pablo lies Cristalinas, (The Bay of Crystal Waters). A lovely walk through trees and wild flowers ends in one of the most beautiful picnic spots on the lake.
| Santiago Atitlán |
Santiago Atitlán is a center of commerce and lies nestled in the bay between volcanos San Pedro and Tolimán. It is also across the bay from what used to be the capital of the Tz'utujil Nation, the village of Santiago has witnessed great events in the passages of time. Visitors can visualize its original location, "Chuitinamit", this Pre-Colombian capital's temples no longer stand, however ceremonial garb of the Tz'utujil royalty have been unearthed here, along with many Maya artifacts.
| Nahualá |
Until a quarter of a century ago, visitors were only allowed into Nahualá until nightfall. The Quiché Indians of Nahualá have a long lasting reputation as being fierce defenders of their land and rights in their mountainous village located 45 minutes to the northwest of Lake Atitlán. The picturesque drive leading to the town passes through pine forests, patchwork designed farmland, and masterfully carved furniture pieces along the side of the road. The name Nahualá signifies "animal spirit protector". In Maya tradition, every person is believed to have a Nahual given to them upon their birth. The true identity of the animal protector is not always discovered, only to be known after one truly sees "inside" of themself. Parents may identify the animal protector through observation of their childs behavior and through the help of the Maya calendar which assigns a different animal to each day of birth, however they will not divulge this information to the child until they believe he or she is prepared. Though this tradition is prevalent throughout Guatemala, Nahualans are the specialists in the craft of creating wooden nahuales. Upon entering town visitors will see stylized wooden animals at every corner, painted in the ancient technique of stain dying or brightly shining and flashily adorned in the latest color trends of today. The crafts people of Nahualá are highly skilled in many areas and their intricately carved furniture, expert embroidery, wooden sling shots and marimbas are sought by folk art collectors and musicians from all over the world.
The best day to set off on a journey to this village is on market day. Though the items displayed do not offer much in the way of curiosities, the locals are more likely to invite visitors into their homes to show their crafts. These personal tours give one an inside glimpse of the every day life of the indigenous people and a great opportunity to see up close and personal their age old talents. Nahuala's Titular Festival is November 23-26, the 25th being the most festive day with the performance of processions, and dances in the town square.
| Quetzaltenango |
It was originally a colonial town settled by the Conquistadores and surrounded by mist covered mountains. It is the second largest city in Guatemala and an extremly industrious site, located one hour further down the Pan American Highway from Nahualá. Well-known for it's verdant land, patchwork quilts of a thousand different shades of green blanket the bordering mountains. In town, visitors will find a myriad of services and accomodations while those that wish to get out to explore the mountains will find numerous eco-tourism organizations offering hiking and camping treks through the mountains, complete with all of the necessary gear and professional, experienced guides.
The natural hot springs of Fuentes Georginas is found nearby and are a must for all visitors. The road leading to the hot springs is alone almost enough to make it worth the trip. While passing through lush plots of agriculture and tranquil scenes of farmers working the soil and collecting produce, the fog curls in and around the winding curves of the road. Sheer drop-offs along the passage create awe inspiring vistas of the valley below to finally end at the three lovely pools of the spring and restaurant where visitors can rent a bungalow and stay for the night. Also in the area are two blown glass factories. Using recycled glass, locals continue the artful tradition of glass blowing creating beautiful drinking glasses, vases and a number of other products which are available for sale in the gift shops.
| Chichicastenango |
The "holy city" of Chichicastenango was settled by indigenous nobility fleeing the Spanish in Utatlán (Quiche capital 12 miles away) in the late 1520's. Though the Indians were unable to avoid the Conquest, for years they continued worshipping their Maya deities along with those of the Catholic religion building their famous church of Santo Tomás on the site of an existing Maya altar. Today clouds of incense spew forth as fervent worshippers and powerful religious elders from all over Guatemala gather to perform a mix of Maya and Catholic ceremonies inside and on the front steps (which cover the original Maya temple steps). Market days (Thursdays and Sundays) offer by far the most impressive sights to visitors. An overwhelming collage of artesans and their handcrafts crowds the church plaza while elaborately dressed men of the Cofradía (spiritual leaders) perform rituals in front of the doorway. Colorful groups of women line the steps buried under brightly striped weavings and bunches of flowers.
| The Mario Dary Biotope Preserve |
The Mario Dary Biotope Preserve was created to protect the resplendent quetzal, Guatemala's national bird and sacred bird of the Maya. Visitors to this reserve must take an old axiom to heart: "The early bird catches the worm." The earlier you hit the trail, the better you're chances will be to spot this magnificent bird as it begins its day foraging for food. The Preserve is found on the road to Cobán and is a short two-hour drive from the capital city of Guatemala. Visitors will find two nature paths through this exquisite cloud forest environment that drapes over mountains reaching altitudes of 7,590 feet above sea level.
The exuberant flora of the cloud forest ecosystem is as awesome as it is lush. Prepare yourself for a wonderful experience as you tread on the paths through a misty, bromeliad-laden forest. Remember to bring along sturdy hiking boots, a warm jacket and, of course, binoculars. The resplendent quetzal is not the only bird that can be spotted in the preserve. Others to keep an eye out for are the green toucan, emerald-throated hummingbird and too many others to list.
The quetzal can be difficult to spot because its call can only be heard when it is in flight. Once the bird has perched, it is quite still. The telltale sign is, of course, the long tail feathers of the male. The female is smaller and much more sedate in appearance. The female's feathers are metallic green and quite iridescent in the light.
Be sure to keep voices low when out on the trail and avoid wearing bright colors. And in order to ensure that other visitors enjoy the Preserve, always pack out what you pack in..leave only your footprints!
| How to get to the Western |
The Pan American highway is the best way to take in the Guatemalan highland countryside. Visit towns such as Tecpán, Solóla, Panajachel, Chichicastenango, Quetzaltenango, and Huehuetenango.
| Climate |
The weather here is similar to that of the northern highlands with frequent showers and temperate weather conditions. The frequent rain requires travelers to keep rain gear handy and heavy clothing for the evening.
| Getting Around |
Much like the northern highlands, it's either a rented car or public transportation in this area. Taxis are non-existent, unless you've hired one from the city!
| How to get to the Northern |
Take the Pan American Highway out of Guatemala City towards the town of Cobán.
| Climate |
The misty weather here requires rain gear and long-sleeved shirts for the chilly wind. The humidity rises quite a bit compared to the rest of the country and promotes a continuous misty rain. The characteristic rain in the area is called chipi chipi by the locals and keeps the surrounding countryside perpetually green and lush. The high altitude keeps temperatures between 50 to 70°F.
| Getting Around |
If you're not in a rented vehicle in this area, you'll be on public transportation. Buses run daily through the area to a series of towns and make many stops at a few of the smaller villages. Taxis are virtually non-existent.
All these informations are provided by courtesy of Destination Guatemala and Sol y Luna |
